The 2023 Gruner Veltliner Steinertal Smaragd is picked on this terraced gneiss site, cooled by cold Waldviertel air that is channeled through gullies. Spicy ferns are open and enticing on the nose. A lovely frisson of white pepper is carried on lemony juiciness. The palate has the customary cut, the usual precision and exquisite tension. This is masterful, yet it has the mellower creaminess of 2023 without sacrificing its essential, cool character. The mid-palate concentrates pepper and yeast. Great work. (Bone-dry)

This brilliant and concentrated Wachau gruner veltliner has a wealth of green bean, summer vegetable and garden herb aromas that I could study for hours. Super straight on the medium-bodied palate, with enormous mineral freshness driving the super-long finish. Long aging potential. Drink or hold.