Dried roses and cherries are lifted by hints of cinnamon and clove as the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia grumbles up from the glass. This is nearly velvety in feel, with a dense wave of tart wild berries complicated by hints of sour citrus and balsamic spice. Plum and licorice nuances linger on, as the 2017 finishes structured, yet not severely so, leaving hints of mocha and red currants. The Ugolaia is another example of the success that Lisini had in this diffucult vintage. That said, it will require a number of years to come full into focus.