This "one-star" bottling is in a class by itself among the Selbachs' 2015 vintage Auslesen. Tropical richness of mango and pineapple is married on the nose to site-typical smokiness and a background of wet stone. On the buoyant, polished palate and superbly sustained finish, the vibrant combination of effusive fruit with smoky, alkaline and ashen counterpoint as well as saliva-liberating salinity is compelling and complete.